And then there were 9...

Hola!

This has taken a little longer than I wanted it to...but this blog site has been a little finicky as of late. I just got back from a 5 day trip to Northern Ghana where Elena, Megan and I visited Mole (Mole-lay) National Park. Like it usually goes, the journey was as exciting (if not more so) than the destination.

The whole thing was to start Friday morning at 8am when our STC (stands for intercity travel or something...) was scheduled to leave. Due to IMMENSE traffic, we didn't arrive at the bus station until 8:30. Thinking we had missed our bus, we were pretty panicked and ran into the station wondering if it had indeed left without us. Thankfully, the bus hadn't even arrived yet. We sat down to wait, and were pleasantly surprised to see our friends Tristan and Michael show up, with tickets to the same bus, and plans to travel to Mole as well.

We proceeded to make plans, book hotel rooms for Friday night in Tamale, the main transfer point when travelling from Accra to Northern Ghana, including Mole. The drive takes about 14 hours, and there are only a few buses going from Tamale to Mole, so we had to stay the night in Tamale. Then, as the bus still hadn't arrived, we proceeded to play card games, and had a Speed tournament, which Megan won, but had to stop pretty quickly because apparently we were being so loud we were disturbing everyone else. Whatever.

At 10:30, the bus finally arrived, and so by 11am, our journey had finally begun. Unfortunately, after getting to Achimota, which is literally like 15 minutes outside Accra, the bus broke down. We waited for almost 2 hours before a mechanic finally saved us, and so by 1pm, we were back on the road. We drove about 3 hours before getting to a rest stop where we proceeded to pay 10 pesewas (10 cents) to use the bathroom, and were then informed that the bus was unfit to make it to Tamale, and another one would be sent. From Accra.

We sat down in a small restaurant at the rest stop for the next 3 hours and played Egyptian Rat Screw and Spoons (more card games) with a young German girl who had just arrived in Ghana and was volunteering at a childrens home in Tamale. What a welcome for her I'm sure. So, at 7pm, the adventure had REALLY begun.

We arrived in Tamale at 4:30 in the morning to find that our hotel reservations had been given away. (Big surprise) Just when we were about to panic, one of the many boys who hangs around the bus station offering to take your bags for money informed us that a bus would be leaving at 6am going to Larabanga, which was just 6km from Mole, and we could walk or take a taxi from there. We bought our tickets, crammed onto this incredibly packed bus, and were off. By this time, we hadn't slept in nearly 24 hours--except a few stolen naps on the pretty uncomfortable bus--we hadn't showered or changed our clothes, hadn't brushed our teeth, and had eaten nothing except the snacks we had brought, mainly peanuts, cookies, crackers and tangerines.

On the bus to Larabanga, I sat next to this young Ghanaian man, Osmand, or Ishmael as you prefer, who proceeded to tell me that he really liked me, and wanted my contact information, etc, etc. Seriously, the fact that this kid could even look at me much less handle my ridiculous morning breath shows a firmness of spirit. Anyway, I proceeded to lie, and tell him that not only did I have neither a phone nor address, but that I was leaving Ghana in a mere 3 weeks. Oops. Osmand was not discouraged. He told me that God-willing we would meet again, and that if I decided to stay in Ghana he would buy me a Cannery.

"A Cannery?" I asked, confused.
"Yes. A Cannery." replies Osmand.
"Wha...? I don't know what that is..." say I, confused and less amused than I should be. (24 hours! No sleep!)
"A Cannery! A Cannery! You don't know a Cannery? It sings and it is yellow..." Somewhat desperate to be understood Osmand.
"A Canary? Like the bird?" I am a little taken back by his passion to be understood.
"Yes! Yes! You know a Cannery?" Relieved Osmand.

In my head I am thinking: That's all I'm gonna get for staying in Ghana FOREVER with this guy? Incredible. Anyway, the ride continues with Osmand continuing to win originality points for telling me that he plays basketball and that he knows Michael Jordan. In fact, they chat online, and he was on his way to go home and chat with MJ right at that moment. Yow.

Eventually, after the bumpiest ride of my life we arrive in Larabanga, and I say goodbye to Osmand forever. (although if God wills it...) Then, the boys Tristan and Michael and their Ghanaian friend Matthew, in their wisdom decide that it would be a GREAT idea to walk along the dirt path to Mole in the 6000 degree heat. (FYI: Northern Ghana is not nearly as humid as Southern Ghana, but is also SO much hotter) I lost interest in this idea pretty quickly and Elena, Megan and I hop in a taxi to the park.

We arrive and it is wonderful once we finally get our room. It had 3 separate beds and was huge and very nice, definitely did not have running water all the time, but you learn to live without that stuff when you need to. Besides, management left us 3 buckets full of water to shower with. Which we did.

After lunch and a much needed nap, we got up for a 3:30 Safari walk through the park. It was SO incredible. We saw elephants, kob and bushbuck (from the Antelope family), baboons, warthogs and a lot of beautiful birds. We were the only group to see elephants in the last 2 days because it was their mating season, and most were further into the park where humans don't get to go. After the walk we showered, ate and fell asleep at like 7:30. It was amazing.

We had another walk at 6:30 the next morning, which was much less successful than our walk the day before. We didn't actually see anything for the first 90 minutes of the 2 hour walk, and didn't see elephants at all. However, after the walk, we were about to get lunch when 2 elephants appeared at the watering holes which are perfectly visible from the hotel restaurant and pool, so we were able to watch them drinking for a while.

After a refreshing swim in the chlorine filled pool (seriously, eyes burning after 65 seconds) we were sitting around continuing to watch the elephants, and decided to order french fries to munch upon. While we were waiting, 3 Pettris Monkeys wandered out of nowhere and started walking around the pool, eating bugs and being really cute and we were all damning ourselves for not bringing our cameras with us, and wasn't it so cure when that monkey tried to take that girl's purse and we all laughed heartily when the girl tried to get it back and then the monkey kind of swung at her, ha ha ha. Right?

Well, the fries arrive, and literally 2 seconds after they are set on our table, we see this monkey walking up to us. Surely he won't get closer right? WRONG! Just as we're kind of giggling about how the WILD MONKEY will not jump on our table, THE WILD MONKEY JUMPS ON OUR TABLE AND BEGINS TO EAT OUR FRIES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The monkey is quickly shooed away by restaurant staff who look a little put out by our request for more fries. (Monkeys carry RABIES and probably Ebola too, FYI) However, the monkey returns, tries to take our stuff now, and it is a little less funny--I might venture to say really scary--when the monkey hisses and swipes at US. Yeesh.

So, the day continues. Megan and I go on one last Safari walk while Elena takes a nap, where we are put in a group with 4 of the rudest Dutch bitches I've ever met in my entire life. (probably the only ones...but still) They talked at loud as they could the entire time, scared off all the animals, made fun of us when we asked them POLITELY to please just shutthefuckup, and were really rude to our guide. Lame end to a very fun/terrifying day.

The next morning (at 4:30) we boarded a bus from the Park back to Tamale, where we decided to take a Tro Tro to Bolgatanga (further north) and then continue on to Paga at the very north of Ghana on the Burkina Faso border. Paga is the home to a sacred pool of crocodiles which are said to have never hurt a human. We were about to find out.

After taking 2 tros--the first threatened to BLOW UP (I kid you not) leaving us in Walewale (wally-wally) where we were befriended by the local Postmaster, who ended up inviting us to stay the night at his house, and sleep in his wife's bed (we politely refused) and then went on to try and charge us 65 cedis ($65) for a taxi from Walewale to Paga. (about an hour away=ridiculous) We then took our second taxi which was at least a million degrees and which we were forced to sit in for at least an hour before actually going anywhere. Thank god for men on bikes who sell Fan Ice (frozen chocolate and vanilla milk and strawberry yogurt= amazing) Anyway, we finally get to Bolgatanga, take a taxi to Paga (for 6 cedis, FYI) and then go see the crocs.

In order to get the crocodiles out of the water we were forced to buy a LIVE chicken which was repeatedly thrown into the water where it floated like a bath toy while more and more pairs of black eyes popped to the surface and slid toward the shore. In total, 5 crocodiles came out of the pool to meet us--and by meet us I mean hold completely, creepily still while we held onto their tails and posed for pictures. Then, all of a sudden as Elena was holding the tail of this huge crocodile, one of the men who works at the pool threw the poor chicken into it's mouth, and the chicken is no longer. Poor Elena, she is definitely a vegan.

After that, we took some ridiculous pictures at the Burkina Faso border which we did not cross, and then hopped a taxi back to Bolga, and then a tro (the most uncomfortable tro in the entire world which was horribly overcrowded) back to Tamale. Upon arrival in Tamale every hotel but this super gross and pretty creepy hotel--which we obviously took--was booked. I mean, my door wouldn't open from the INSIDE! Then, we found dinner, went to bed where we proceeded to simultaneously sweat through our clothes and get eaten my mosquitoes, until 4:45 am, when we got up to catch a bus back to Accra.

Our bus to Accra was highly uneventful except for the ridiculous Nigerian movies played, for which we were grateful. We finally left the bus, caught a taxi, just in time to miss a HUGE rainstorm! Yay! Unfortunately, our cab's windshield wiper broke, then the sun roof leaked all over me in the front seat, and then, stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic, the battery died.

Like the adventurers that we are, Elena, Megan and I hopped out of the taxi in the pouring rain and proceeded to push it (in the rain!) until it eventually started. Much laughing ensued at the sight of 3 Oboruni women pushing a cab in the rain and dark in the middle of Accra. Ha ha indeed.

We arrived home, took bucket baths, as the water was out in Volta Hall, and went to sleep. Oh yes, and in all this ridiculousness, I lost a second toenail. Not sure I mentioned before, but I lost one a few weeks back, which has eventually regrown, but now I am down to nine once more. Alas.

I love you.

This is for the one I love

Dear Trader Joe's,

I miss you. I miss your marinated tofu. I miss your eco-friendly re-useable bags. Things are different here. I go through black plastic bags like they're water. I tried buying a reusable bag...but the zipper broke. I still use it though. I use it when I don't have time to do my own laundry, or its raining outside and I can't hang my clothes. I put my dirty laundry in this plastic re-useable bag and take it to Akuafo Hall and pay 9 Ghana Cedis to get my laundry washed and dried. It really is nice not to have starchy underwear. I'm sure you understand.

Sometimes when I am eating Jollof Rice for the third day in a row I find myself thinking of Morning Star Farms fake chicken patties. Sometimes I crave whole wheat bread so much I convince myself that the white bread that has been dyed brown actually has nutritional value. I dream about brocolli flourets sometimes. Not every night. No, its not that bad, I just...miss them. I miss you. Your know what's funny? I used to love plantains so much! I would only eat them like twice a year, sometimes I would get them with a salad when I had long breaks between classes at school. I used to think about fried plantains. Now I just think about how many plantains I have eaten in the last week. Its a lot. What wouldn't I do for canned corn? For almond butter? For soy milk?

Trader Joes? Do you still sell soytzels? They were so good with organic peanut butter! The wonderful burnt taste...it took awhile to get used to it...but once I did I was hooked for life. It was like that scene in Mr. Hollands Opus when Mr. Holland is explaining to his wife how he felt when he first heard John Coltrain. It was just like that!

I watched When Harry Met Sally last week. It was so funny. I don't know if I ever really appreciated how much I love that film until it was the first film I'd seen in awhile. Billy Crystal is not even remotely sexy, but I would fall in love with him in that film, just like Sally does. I've been reading Harry Potter over and over. Maybe I can't admit that its over? I think I appreciate that I know what's going to happen, but it doesn't take away from the excitement at all! It is still so wonderful. I found a copy of Harry Potter and The Half-Blood Prince last week and now I've been reading that one too. Its so amazing, J.K. Rowling is a genius. I hope you don't think I'm crazy.

When I travel for my winter break, I might have to eat meat. I really want to climb Mt. Cameroon, but to do it I will have to put my diet directly in the hands of my guides. And, it seems pretty obvious that jerkey and dried fish is easier to carry around a mountain than eggs. That's okay though...my cholesterol must be really high right now.

I'm being brave...my body really hates it here. I think it might hate me more when I get back to you...but you'll win it back over quickly with your fiber cakes, your organic strawberries, your wonderful coffee, your cheese. Oh, your cheese! How I miss calcium! In little more than seven months I will be full of wonderful memories and a once in a lifetime experience that I appreciate more than I could ever, ever express. I will also be full of starch. But, you'll help me fix that. I know you will.

I love you.