Hola!
This has taken a little longer than I wanted it to...but this blog site has been a little finicky as of late. I just got back from a 5 day trip to Northern Ghana where Elena, Megan and I visited Mole (Mole-lay) National Park. Like it usually goes, the journey was as exciting (if not more so) than the destination.
The whole thing was to start Friday morning at 8am when our STC (stands for intercity travel or something...) was scheduled to leave. Due to IMMENSE traffic, we didn't arrive at the bus station until 8:30. Thinking we had missed our bus, we were pretty panicked and ran into the station wondering if it had indeed left without us. Thankfully, the bus hadn't even arrived yet. We sat down to wait, and were pleasantly surprised to see our friends Tristan and Michael show up, with tickets to the same bus, and plans to travel to Mole as well.
We proceeded to make plans, book hotel rooms for Friday night in Tamale, the main transfer point when travelling from Accra to Northern Ghana, including Mole. The drive takes about 14 hours, and there are only a few buses going from Tamale to Mole, so we had to stay the night in Tamale. Then, as the bus still hadn't arrived, we proceeded to play card games, and had a Speed tournament, which Megan won, but had to stop pretty quickly because apparently we were being so loud we were disturbing everyone else. Whatever.
At 10:30, the bus finally arrived, and so by 11am, our journey had finally begun. Unfortunately, after getting to Achimota, which is literally like 15 minutes outside Accra, the bus broke down. We waited for almost 2 hours before a mechanic finally saved us, and so by 1pm, we were back on the road. We drove about 3 hours before getting to a rest stop where we proceeded to pay 10 pesewas (10 cents) to use the bathroom, and were then informed that the bus was unfit to make it to Tamale, and another one would be sent. From Accra.
We sat down in a small restaurant at the rest stop for the next 3 hours and played Egyptian Rat Screw and Spoons (more card games) with a young German girl who had just arrived in Ghana and was volunteering at a childrens home in Tamale. What a welcome for her I'm sure. So, at 7pm, the adventure had REALLY begun.
We arrived in Tamale at 4:30 in the morning to find that our hotel reservations had been given away. (Big surprise) Just when we were about to panic, one of the many boys who hangs around the bus station offering to take your bags for money informed us that a bus would be leaving at 6am going to Larabanga, which was just 6km from Mole, and we could walk or take a taxi from there. We bought our tickets, crammed onto this incredibly packed bus, and were off. By this time, we hadn't slept in nearly 24 hours--except a few stolen naps on the pretty uncomfortable bus--we hadn't showered or changed our clothes, hadn't brushed our teeth, and had eaten nothing except the snacks we had brought, mainly peanuts, cookies, crackers and tangerines.
On the bus to Larabanga, I sat next to this young Ghanaian man, Osmand, or Ishmael as you prefer, who proceeded to tell me that he really liked me, and wanted my contact information, etc, etc. Seriously, the fact that this kid could even look at me much less handle my ridiculous morning breath shows a firmness of spirit. Anyway, I proceeded to lie, and tell him that not only did I have neither a phone nor address, but that I was leaving Ghana in a mere 3 weeks. Oops. Osmand was not discouraged. He told me that God-willing we would meet again, and that if I decided to stay in Ghana he would buy me a Cannery.
"A Cannery?" I asked, confused.
"Yes. A Cannery." replies Osmand.
"Wha...? I don't know what that is..." say I, confused and less amused than I should be. (24 hours! No sleep!)
"A Cannery! A Cannery! You don't know a Cannery? It sings and it is yellow..." Somewhat desperate to be understood Osmand.
"A Canary? Like the bird?" I am a little taken back by his passion to be understood.
"Yes! Yes! You know a Cannery?" Relieved Osmand.
In my head I am thinking: That's all I'm gonna get for staying in Ghana FOREVER with this guy? Incredible. Anyway, the ride continues with Osmand continuing to win originality points for telling me that he plays basketball and that he knows Michael Jordan. In fact, they chat online, and he was on his way to go home and chat with MJ right at that moment. Yow.
Eventually, after the bumpiest ride of my life we arrive in Larabanga, and I say goodbye to Osmand forever. (although if God wills it...) Then, the boys Tristan and Michael and their Ghanaian friend Matthew, in their wisdom decide that it would be a GREAT idea to walk along the dirt path to Mole in the 6000 degree heat. (FYI: Northern Ghana is not nearly as humid as Southern Ghana, but is also SO much hotter) I lost interest in this idea pretty quickly and Elena, Megan and I hop in a taxi to the park.
We arrive and it is wonderful once we finally get our room. It had 3 separate beds and was huge and very nice, definitely did not have running water all the time, but you learn to live without that stuff when you need to. Besides, management left us 3 buckets full of water to shower with. Which we did.
After lunch and a much needed nap, we got up for a 3:30 Safari walk through the park. It was SO incredible. We saw elephants, kob and bushbuck (from the Antelope family), baboons, warthogs and a lot of beautiful birds. We were the only group to see elephants in the last 2 days because it was their mating season, and most were further into the park where humans don't get to go. After the walk we showered, ate and fell asleep at like 7:30. It was amazing.
We had another walk at 6:30 the next morning, which was much less successful than our walk the day before. We didn't actually see anything for the first 90 minutes of the 2 hour walk, and didn't see elephants at all. However, after the walk, we were about to get lunch when 2 elephants appeared at the watering holes which are perfectly visible from the hotel restaurant and pool, so we were able to watch them drinking for a while.
After a refreshing swim in the chlorine filled pool (seriously, eyes burning after 65 seconds) we were sitting around continuing to watch the elephants, and decided to order french fries to munch upon. While we were waiting, 3 Pettris Monkeys wandered out of nowhere and started walking around the pool, eating bugs and being really cute and we were all damning ourselves for not bringing our cameras with us, and wasn't it so cure when that monkey tried to take that girl's purse and we all laughed heartily when the girl tried to get it back and then the monkey kind of swung at her, ha ha ha. Right?
Well, the fries arrive, and literally 2 seconds after they are set on our table, we see this monkey walking up to us. Surely he won't get closer right? WRONG! Just as we're kind of giggling about how the WILD MONKEY will not jump on our table, THE WILD MONKEY JUMPS ON OUR TABLE AND BEGINS TO EAT OUR FRIES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The monkey is quickly shooed away by restaurant staff who look a little put out by our request for more fries. (Monkeys carry RABIES and probably Ebola too, FYI) However, the monkey returns, tries to take our stuff now, and it is a little less funny--I might venture to say really scary--when the monkey hisses and swipes at US. Yeesh.
So, the day continues. Megan and I go on one last Safari walk while Elena takes a nap, where we are put in a group with 4 of the rudest Dutch bitches I've ever met in my entire life. (probably the only ones...but still) They talked at loud as they could the entire time, scared off all the animals, made fun of us when we asked them POLITELY to please just shutthefuckup, and were really rude to our guide. Lame end to a very fun/terrifying day.
The next morning (at 4:30) we boarded a bus from the Park back to Tamale, where we decided to take a Tro Tro to Bolgatanga (further north) and then continue on to Paga at the very north of Ghana on the Burkina Faso border. Paga is the home to a sacred pool of crocodiles which are said to have never hurt a human. We were about to find out.
After taking 2 tros--the first threatened to BLOW UP (I kid you not) leaving us in Walewale (wally-wally) where we were befriended by the local Postmaster, who ended up inviting us to stay the night at his house, and sleep in his wife's bed (we politely refused) and then went on to try and charge us 65 cedis ($65) for a taxi from Walewale to Paga. (about an hour away=ridiculous) We then took our second taxi which was at least a million degrees and which we were forced to sit in for at least an hour before actually going anywhere. Thank god for men on bikes who sell Fan Ice (frozen chocolate and vanilla milk and strawberry yogurt= amazing) Anyway, we finally get to Bolgatanga, take a taxi to Paga (for 6 cedis, FYI) and then go see the crocs.
In order to get the crocodiles out of the water we were forced to buy a LIVE chicken which was repeatedly thrown into the water where it floated like a bath toy while more and more pairs of black eyes popped to the surface and slid toward the shore. In total, 5 crocodiles came out of the pool to meet us--and by meet us I mean hold completely, creepily still while we held onto their tails and posed for pictures. Then, all of a sudden as Elena was holding the tail of this huge crocodile, one of the men who works at the pool threw the poor chicken into it's mouth, and the chicken is no longer. Poor Elena, she is definitely a vegan.
After that, we took some ridiculous pictures at the Burkina Faso border which we did not cross, and then hopped a taxi back to Bolga, and then a tro (the most uncomfortable tro in the entire world which was horribly overcrowded) back to Tamale. Upon arrival in Tamale every hotel but this super gross and pretty creepy hotel--which we obviously took--was booked. I mean, my door wouldn't open from the INSIDE! Then, we found dinner, went to bed where we proceeded to simultaneously sweat through our clothes and get eaten my mosquitoes, until 4:45 am, when we got up to catch a bus back to Accra.
Our bus to Accra was highly uneventful except for the ridiculous Nigerian movies played, for which we were grateful. We finally left the bus, caught a taxi, just in time to miss a HUGE rainstorm! Yay! Unfortunately, our cab's windshield wiper broke, then the sun roof leaked all over me in the front seat, and then, stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic, the battery died.
Like the adventurers that we are, Elena, Megan and I hopped out of the taxi in the pouring rain and proceeded to push it (in the rain!) until it eventually started. Much laughing ensued at the sight of 3 Oboruni women pushing a cab in the rain and dark in the middle of Accra. Ha ha indeed.
We arrived home, took bucket baths, as the water was out in Volta Hall, and went to sleep. Oh yes, and in all this ridiculousness, I lost a second toenail. Not sure I mentioned before, but I lost one a few weeks back, which has eventually regrown, but now I am down to nine once more. Alas.
I love you.
Thursday, November 22, 2007
Saturday, November 3, 2007
This is for the one I love
Dear Trader Joe's,
I miss you. I miss your marinated tofu. I miss your eco-friendly re-useable bags. Things are different here. I go through black plastic bags like they're water. I tried buying a reusable bag...but the zipper broke. I still use it though. I use it when I don't have time to do my own laundry, or its raining outside and I can't hang my clothes. I put my dirty laundry in this plastic re-useable bag and take it to Akuafo Hall and pay 9 Ghana Cedis to get my laundry washed and dried. It really is nice not to have starchy underwear. I'm sure you understand.
Sometimes when I am eating Jollof Rice for the third day in a row I find myself thinking of Morning Star Farms fake chicken patties. Sometimes I crave whole wheat bread so much I convince myself that the white bread that has been dyed brown actually has nutritional value. I dream about brocolli flourets sometimes. Not every night. No, its not that bad, I just...miss them. I miss you. Your know what's funny? I used to love plantains so much! I would only eat them like twice a year, sometimes I would get them with a salad when I had long breaks between classes at school. I used to think about fried plantains. Now I just think about how many plantains I have eaten in the last week. Its a lot. What wouldn't I do for canned corn? For almond butter? For soy milk?
Trader Joes? Do you still sell soytzels? They were so good with organic peanut butter! The wonderful burnt taste...it took awhile to get used to it...but once I did I was hooked for life. It was like that scene in Mr. Hollands Opus when Mr. Holland is explaining to his wife how he felt when he first heard John Coltrain. It was just like that!
I watched When Harry Met Sally last week. It was so funny. I don't know if I ever really appreciated how much I love that film until it was the first film I'd seen in awhile. Billy Crystal is not even remotely sexy, but I would fall in love with him in that film, just like Sally does. I've been reading Harry Potter over and over. Maybe I can't admit that its over? I think I appreciate that I know what's going to happen, but it doesn't take away from the excitement at all! It is still so wonderful. I found a copy of Harry Potter and The Half-Blood Prince last week and now I've been reading that one too. Its so amazing, J.K. Rowling is a genius. I hope you don't think I'm crazy.
When I travel for my winter break, I might have to eat meat. I really want to climb Mt. Cameroon, but to do it I will have to put my diet directly in the hands of my guides. And, it seems pretty obvious that jerkey and dried fish is easier to carry around a mountain than eggs. That's okay though...my cholesterol must be really high right now.
I'm being brave...my body really hates it here. I think it might hate me more when I get back to you...but you'll win it back over quickly with your fiber cakes, your organic strawberries, your wonderful coffee, your cheese. Oh, your cheese! How I miss calcium! In little more than seven months I will be full of wonderful memories and a once in a lifetime experience that I appreciate more than I could ever, ever express. I will also be full of starch. But, you'll help me fix that. I know you will.
I love you.
I miss you. I miss your marinated tofu. I miss your eco-friendly re-useable bags. Things are different here. I go through black plastic bags like they're water. I tried buying a reusable bag...but the zipper broke. I still use it though. I use it when I don't have time to do my own laundry, or its raining outside and I can't hang my clothes. I put my dirty laundry in this plastic re-useable bag and take it to Akuafo Hall and pay 9 Ghana Cedis to get my laundry washed and dried. It really is nice not to have starchy underwear. I'm sure you understand.
Sometimes when I am eating Jollof Rice for the third day in a row I find myself thinking of Morning Star Farms fake chicken patties. Sometimes I crave whole wheat bread so much I convince myself that the white bread that has been dyed brown actually has nutritional value. I dream about brocolli flourets sometimes. Not every night. No, its not that bad, I just...miss them. I miss you. Your know what's funny? I used to love plantains so much! I would only eat them like twice a year, sometimes I would get them with a salad when I had long breaks between classes at school. I used to think about fried plantains. Now I just think about how many plantains I have eaten in the last week. Its a lot. What wouldn't I do for canned corn? For almond butter? For soy milk?
Trader Joes? Do you still sell soytzels? They were so good with organic peanut butter! The wonderful burnt taste...it took awhile to get used to it...but once I did I was hooked for life. It was like that scene in Mr. Hollands Opus when Mr. Holland is explaining to his wife how he felt when he first heard John Coltrain. It was just like that!
I watched When Harry Met Sally last week. It was so funny. I don't know if I ever really appreciated how much I love that film until it was the first film I'd seen in awhile. Billy Crystal is not even remotely sexy, but I would fall in love with him in that film, just like Sally does. I've been reading Harry Potter over and over. Maybe I can't admit that its over? I think I appreciate that I know what's going to happen, but it doesn't take away from the excitement at all! It is still so wonderful. I found a copy of Harry Potter and The Half-Blood Prince last week and now I've been reading that one too. Its so amazing, J.K. Rowling is a genius. I hope you don't think I'm crazy.
When I travel for my winter break, I might have to eat meat. I really want to climb Mt. Cameroon, but to do it I will have to put my diet directly in the hands of my guides. And, it seems pretty obvious that jerkey and dried fish is easier to carry around a mountain than eggs. That's okay though...my cholesterol must be really high right now.
I'm being brave...my body really hates it here. I think it might hate me more when I get back to you...but you'll win it back over quickly with your fiber cakes, your organic strawberries, your wonderful coffee, your cheese. Oh, your cheese! How I miss calcium! In little more than seven months I will be full of wonderful memories and a once in a lifetime experience that I appreciate more than I could ever, ever express. I will also be full of starch. But, you'll help me fix that. I know you will.
I love you.
Sunday, October 14, 2007
22 Years...and then some
Hihihihihi,
I haven't written in awhile, and there is so much to say!! Unfortunately, as is generally the case, the fun and different generally takes a back seat to the ridiculousness that is my life. The 22nd anniversary of my birth was no exception.
So, after traveling 2 weekends in a row (one trip to Kokro Bite Beach--lots of fun, beautiful beach, HORRIBLE sunburn, great pancakes and pasta--and the other to Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary--crazy rainstorm, potential Tro Tro accident, walking 5km in mud and god-knows-what-else, FEEDING MONA MONKEYS BANANAS, great game of Kings Cup in our room) I was looking forward to staying home the weekend of my birthday, especially as I had 2 papers due the next week, and trying to print your stuff out can get pretty intense, so some of my friends and I decided to have a great burrito night b-day celebration. We invited our whole group of Californians, and some of our new Ghanaian friends. Unfortunately, for the party, the electricity went out about an hour before the cooking was supposed to commence, a huge thunder storm appeared out of nowhere, and, to top it all off, in our efforts to make green chile for the party, Elena and I burned our hands (on the peppers) so badly they were on fire for literally 6 hours. The power finally came back on around 8, and my friends had gotten me a BEAUTIFUL cake (with my name on it and everything!) and the burrito eating commenced! I was still trying to cope with my intense chile burns (we tried everything to make it stop: milk, tomatoes, hydrocortizone cream, ice, cocoa butter, gin, etc, etc and nothing worked) so I didn't really eat that much, but the party was fun in the end. So much for a perfect African fiesta.
Anyway, moving on. Since then I attended a CRAZY toga party for another birthday, the theme was that everyone had to wear African cloth, and there was NO STITCHING ALLOWED. It was really amazing what some people came up with. I cheated a little, and wore leggings under my bright green fabric tied into a tube top and skirt-thing, but no one seemed to care. What was really amazing was that no one wore the same fabric at all! A bunch of Ghanaians were there too, and it was just a fun college party, complete with a game of flip cup (I didn't participate, I was too busy dancing) and it was great to have a laid back night with everyone.
I have also been playing Rugby in the past 6 weeks. We are in the process of creating a women's rugby team at the University of Ghana, however, only Oboruni girls have shown up to play. We had our first game last weekend, against a team of secondary school girls, and we were KILLED! These girls (who all looked like they were about 9) were SO fast,we just couldn't keep up with them, and, they played SO dirty! I was punched in the face twice, a girl tackled me and then elbowed me in the face, and another girl picked me up and dropped me on the ground!! It was insane. A bunch of our friends showed up to laugh at us and cheer us on, and it really was a lot of fun. We are supposed to have one more game before the end of the semester, so hopefully we'll be ready!
In addition to all this, I am SO behind in school! I have only just begun my field work for my research project, which is due in a month, and all of a sudden I have tons of papers and projects to do for my classes, which is ridiculous because we seriously haven't been doing anything in any of my classes for the entire semester! Oh well...its my fault to delaying so long on my project, a fact that my adviser is pretty ready to point out at any available opportunity. Eeesh.
Tonight all the international students are having this huge Halloween party, it should be a lot of fun. I am dressing up as one of the boys in my program, he is super tall, has long hair, a mustache, and wears bright colored pants, so my costume will not be remotely sexy, of which I am grateful, as the party is shaping up to be about 80% male. Okay, I am off to do research, I promise I will not delay so long on the blogging again.
I love you.
I haven't written in awhile, and there is so much to say!! Unfortunately, as is generally the case, the fun and different generally takes a back seat to the ridiculousness that is my life. The 22nd anniversary of my birth was no exception.
So, after traveling 2 weekends in a row (one trip to Kokro Bite Beach--lots of fun, beautiful beach, HORRIBLE sunburn, great pancakes and pasta--and the other to Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary--crazy rainstorm, potential Tro Tro accident, walking 5km in mud and god-knows-what-else, FEEDING MONA MONKEYS BANANAS, great game of Kings Cup in our room) I was looking forward to staying home the weekend of my birthday, especially as I had 2 papers due the next week, and trying to print your stuff out can get pretty intense, so some of my friends and I decided to have a great burrito night b-day celebration. We invited our whole group of Californians, and some of our new Ghanaian friends. Unfortunately, for the party, the electricity went out about an hour before the cooking was supposed to commence, a huge thunder storm appeared out of nowhere, and, to top it all off, in our efforts to make green chile for the party, Elena and I burned our hands (on the peppers) so badly they were on fire for literally 6 hours. The power finally came back on around 8, and my friends had gotten me a BEAUTIFUL cake (with my name on it and everything!) and the burrito eating commenced! I was still trying to cope with my intense chile burns (we tried everything to make it stop: milk, tomatoes, hydrocortizone cream, ice, cocoa butter, gin, etc, etc and nothing worked) so I didn't really eat that much, but the party was fun in the end. So much for a perfect African fiesta.
Anyway, moving on. Since then I attended a CRAZY toga party for another birthday, the theme was that everyone had to wear African cloth, and there was NO STITCHING ALLOWED. It was really amazing what some people came up with. I cheated a little, and wore leggings under my bright green fabric tied into a tube top and skirt-thing, but no one seemed to care. What was really amazing was that no one wore the same fabric at all! A bunch of Ghanaians were there too, and it was just a fun college party, complete with a game of flip cup (I didn't participate, I was too busy dancing) and it was great to have a laid back night with everyone.
I have also been playing Rugby in the past 6 weeks. We are in the process of creating a women's rugby team at the University of Ghana, however, only Oboruni girls have shown up to play. We had our first game last weekend, against a team of secondary school girls, and we were KILLED! These girls (who all looked like they were about 9) were SO fast,we just couldn't keep up with them, and, they played SO dirty! I was punched in the face twice, a girl tackled me and then elbowed me in the face, and another girl picked me up and dropped me on the ground!! It was insane. A bunch of our friends showed up to laugh at us and cheer us on, and it really was a lot of fun. We are supposed to have one more game before the end of the semester, so hopefully we'll be ready!
In addition to all this, I am SO behind in school! I have only just begun my field work for my research project, which is due in a month, and all of a sudden I have tons of papers and projects to do for my classes, which is ridiculous because we seriously haven't been doing anything in any of my classes for the entire semester! Oh well...its my fault to delaying so long on my project, a fact that my adviser is pretty ready to point out at any available opportunity. Eeesh.
Tonight all the international students are having this huge Halloween party, it should be a lot of fun. I am dressing up as one of the boys in my program, he is super tall, has long hair, a mustache, and wears bright colored pants, so my costume will not be remotely sexy, of which I am grateful, as the party is shaping up to be about 80% male. Okay, I am off to do research, I promise I will not delay so long on the blogging again.
I love you.
Thursday, September 27, 2007
Just a Quickie
Wo ho te sen?
I have literally 20 minutes and 17 seconds left to write a quick blog, so forgive the hastiness. Things have been good here on the equator, except it is so hot now, all the time I have no motivation to do anything but read books in my dorm room. I have finished Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows (twice), Long Walk to Freedom (Nelson Mandela's Autobiography--amazing) and Drop City by T.C. Boyle. (I don't recommend) and have now started The Poisonwood Bible by Barbara Kingsolver, which is supposed to be amazing, and so far, is.
I know. I am so lame. I am in freaking Africa and I am reading American novels. In my defense I did also read Things Fall Apart by Chinua Achebe, about the beginnings of colonization in present-day Nigeria. (also amazing) and, it is SO HOT. We are talking 100 degrees (at least) with 100% humidity. It gets unbearably hot by 8:30, and doesn't quit until at least 7pm, and even then, its too hot to sleep, and we can't leave doors and windows open because of the mosquitoes. Needless to say, I smell great all the time.
This weekend I am escaping campus to go to Kokobrite (cocoa-breetay) Beach with Elena, Megan, and our friend Heather. It should be a lot of fun, and will give me a chance to even out the incredible wife-beater tan I have acquired.
Today has started out okay (its currently 9am) I went running with Megan, (something that needs to happen all the time seeing as my Ghanaian diet is starting to consist of white bread and rice) then got breakfast with Elena, which was good except the fly that committed suicide in my coffee--killing my soul a little with it--and am now going to drop some fabric off at my new favorite Seamstress's' place to get two pairs of shorts and a new dress. (I need something to wear in all this heat, jeez) Later I have a presentation for my independent study project...we'll see how it goes.
I'll write about my weekend soon. I love you.
I have literally 20 minutes and 17 seconds left to write a quick blog, so forgive the hastiness. Things have been good here on the equator, except it is so hot now, all the time I have no motivation to do anything but read books in my dorm room. I have finished Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows (twice), Long Walk to Freedom (Nelson Mandela's Autobiography--amazing) and Drop City by T.C. Boyle. (I don't recommend) and have now started The Poisonwood Bible by Barbara Kingsolver, which is supposed to be amazing, and so far, is.
I know. I am so lame. I am in freaking Africa and I am reading American novels. In my defense I did also read Things Fall Apart by Chinua Achebe, about the beginnings of colonization in present-day Nigeria. (also amazing) and, it is SO HOT. We are talking 100 degrees (at least) with 100% humidity. It gets unbearably hot by 8:30, and doesn't quit until at least 7pm, and even then, its too hot to sleep, and we can't leave doors and windows open because of the mosquitoes. Needless to say, I smell great all the time.
This weekend I am escaping campus to go to Kokobrite (cocoa-breetay) Beach with Elena, Megan, and our friend Heather. It should be a lot of fun, and will give me a chance to even out the incredible wife-beater tan I have acquired.
Today has started out okay (its currently 9am) I went running with Megan, (something that needs to happen all the time seeing as my Ghanaian diet is starting to consist of white bread and rice) then got breakfast with Elena, which was good except the fly that committed suicide in my coffee--killing my soul a little with it--and am now going to drop some fabric off at my new favorite Seamstress's' place to get two pairs of shorts and a new dress. (I need something to wear in all this heat, jeez) Later I have a presentation for my independent study project...we'll see how it goes.
I'll write about my weekend soon. I love you.
Monday, September 17, 2007
Take Two
Wo ho te sen? (this is Twi for "how are you?" it literally means "how is your body?" the response is: Me ho ye. Or, "my body is fine" I can honestly say that this is one of very few phrases I can mutter with correct accent and one I can reply to with confidence. Anyway...my body is fine, and I hope yours is too.)
I have SO many stories! Most are general ridiculousness that would probably only happen to me. For instance: that time it was literally like 100 degrees (Fahrenheit, only like...35 degrees Celsius?) and I was in the hottest classroom in the world (where 3 of my 5 classes are...) and like 17 Ghanaian students all squeeze into MY row, even though there was really only room for about 8 of them, and I was wearing a 100% linen shirt, so I was IMMEDIATELY the really gross white girl with a total sweat band around my shirt and down my back. Gross. And also hilarious in about 10-12 months.
There are also the things like the fact that I might have a toe fungus (they take about a year to go away...too bad its flip flop season ALL THE TIME here,) How my Africa Under Colonial Rule professor hasn't shown up in 2 weeks, however has gone far enough to A.) give enormous reading assignments, and B.) Call the TA in the class after we have been waiting for him for nearly an hour, and tell us that he is on his way and is stuck in traffic, and no one is allowed to leave. This class is 2 hours long, so after an hour and 45 minutes, I decided I needed to leave. I mean seriously. There is also the time when I went into Accra to pick up the package my parents sent me (4 boxes of tampons!!!) and this ridiculous thugged-out Ghanaian guy who apparently thought that a white girl from Sweet Home Oregon would be impressed with his thuginess, (even though neither she nor he probably know anything about WHY "thugs" wear really baggy pants and "bling-bling") and decided to play this third grade game of tag with her (meaning he got up from the counter he was leaning against and tapped her on the shoulder as fast as he could, and then went back to leaning against his counter, maybe hoping she wouldn't see?) But she saw and was completely unimpressed with both the thuginess AND the game of tag she once played with boys on the playground at Oak Heights Elementary School. Sadly, this girl, ME, did not come to Ghana to act like she is 11. Crazy. I know.
Besides the ridiculous, which, let's face it follows me everywhere, things have been pretty tame around here. School has really started, and besides the pretty large amount of reading I have to do for both my Colonial Rule class and my Black Diaspora class, things are very mellow. I did decide to drop my African Literature class as it was both 3 hours long and also the most boring class I have ever taken in my life. I have replaced it with Gender Issues in Religion and Society. Which might turn out to be the most interesting class EVER. Why? You might ask. Well, this class is made up of about 50 people. About 15 are oboruni (white--spelled correctly this time) women, and the other 35 or so are Ghanaian men and women. (Apparently oboruni men know better?) Anyway, the oboruni women and Ghanaian men represent too very opposite sides of the gender spectrum. For example: at one point during the discussion, the scenario was raised that if a Ghanaian family had one boy and one girl, but only enough money to educate one, who would they logically choose? (Obviously they would choose the boy, as men are seen as the providers and women marry and leave the family, so it is the boy who will provide for the larger family unit, etc, etc.) These ideas were voiced in various ways, and then one man raised his hand to say "Well, it would be a waste of time to educate the female." WHAT!!! I could barely believe my ears! To be fair, in the context, and after the other before-mentioned ideas were expressed, this is a somewhat valid statement, however, WHO JUST SAYS THAT???? The answer: Apparently a lot of people. As was soon proven. when "power" was described as a man being able to provide for his family, financially stable women were described as being "disrespectful" to their husbands, and when someone (a guy) made the statement that every woman he knew with children had thoroughly enjoyed being pregnant. I think I am about to learn A LOT about gender culture in Ghana. I am so excited!
Today has been pretty decent thus-far. I took my friend (and by took, I mean accompanied her in a taxi--which she paid for) to the hospital to get her ankle looked at (she tore a ligament during a football game last week) then we went to lunch, talked a lot about ourselves--I learned Becky's mom died when she was 13, and about her religion, Baha'i. I told her about all my plans for the future (which are a forever fluid group of ideas that change intensity and priority almost daily) and later today I am going shopping for food and dishes to accompany my new HOT PLATE! This thing is going to change EVERYTHING! (I hope it will at least help me eat vegetables without getting sick--that would be a pretty big accomplishment.) In other news, I decided not to go forward with Cross Country, but I might be playing women's RUGBY soon. I'll keep you posted. I love you.
I have SO many stories! Most are general ridiculousness that would probably only happen to me. For instance: that time it was literally like 100 degrees (Fahrenheit, only like...35 degrees Celsius?) and I was in the hottest classroom in the world (where 3 of my 5 classes are...) and like 17 Ghanaian students all squeeze into MY row, even though there was really only room for about 8 of them, and I was wearing a 100% linen shirt, so I was IMMEDIATELY the really gross white girl with a total sweat band around my shirt and down my back. Gross. And also hilarious in about 10-12 months.
There are also the things like the fact that I might have a toe fungus (they take about a year to go away...too bad its flip flop season ALL THE TIME here,) How my Africa Under Colonial Rule professor hasn't shown up in 2 weeks, however has gone far enough to A.) give enormous reading assignments, and B.) Call the TA in the class after we have been waiting for him for nearly an hour, and tell us that he is on his way and is stuck in traffic, and no one is allowed to leave. This class is 2 hours long, so after an hour and 45 minutes, I decided I needed to leave. I mean seriously. There is also the time when I went into Accra to pick up the package my parents sent me (4 boxes of tampons!!!) and this ridiculous thugged-out Ghanaian guy who apparently thought that a white girl from Sweet Home Oregon would be impressed with his thuginess, (even though neither she nor he probably know anything about WHY "thugs" wear really baggy pants and "bling-bling") and decided to play this third grade game of tag with her (meaning he got up from the counter he was leaning against and tapped her on the shoulder as fast as he could, and then went back to leaning against his counter, maybe hoping she wouldn't see?) But she saw and was completely unimpressed with both the thuginess AND the game of tag she once played with boys on the playground at Oak Heights Elementary School. Sadly, this girl, ME, did not come to Ghana to act like she is 11. Crazy. I know.
Besides the ridiculous, which, let's face it follows me everywhere, things have been pretty tame around here. School has really started, and besides the pretty large amount of reading I have to do for both my Colonial Rule class and my Black Diaspora class, things are very mellow. I did decide to drop my African Literature class as it was both 3 hours long and also the most boring class I have ever taken in my life. I have replaced it with Gender Issues in Religion and Society. Which might turn out to be the most interesting class EVER. Why? You might ask. Well, this class is made up of about 50 people. About 15 are oboruni (white--spelled correctly this time) women, and the other 35 or so are Ghanaian men and women. (Apparently oboruni men know better?) Anyway, the oboruni women and Ghanaian men represent too very opposite sides of the gender spectrum. For example: at one point during the discussion, the scenario was raised that if a Ghanaian family had one boy and one girl, but only enough money to educate one, who would they logically choose? (Obviously they would choose the boy, as men are seen as the providers and women marry and leave the family, so it is the boy who will provide for the larger family unit, etc, etc.) These ideas were voiced in various ways, and then one man raised his hand to say "Well, it would be a waste of time to educate the female." WHAT!!! I could barely believe my ears! To be fair, in the context, and after the other before-mentioned ideas were expressed, this is a somewhat valid statement, however, WHO JUST SAYS THAT???? The answer: Apparently a lot of people. As was soon proven. when "power" was described as a man being able to provide for his family, financially stable women were described as being "disrespectful" to their husbands, and when someone (a guy) made the statement that every woman he knew with children had thoroughly enjoyed being pregnant. I think I am about to learn A LOT about gender culture in Ghana. I am so excited!
Today has been pretty decent thus-far. I took my friend (and by took, I mean accompanied her in a taxi--which she paid for) to the hospital to get her ankle looked at (she tore a ligament during a football game last week) then we went to lunch, talked a lot about ourselves--I learned Becky's mom died when she was 13, and about her religion, Baha'i. I told her about all my plans for the future (which are a forever fluid group of ideas that change intensity and priority almost daily) and later today I am going shopping for food and dishes to accompany my new HOT PLATE! This thing is going to change EVERYTHING! (I hope it will at least help me eat vegetables without getting sick--that would be a pretty big accomplishment.) In other news, I decided not to go forward with Cross Country, but I might be playing women's RUGBY soon. I'll keep you posted. I love you.
Friday, September 7, 2007
Clean Laundry and Football
Hello again,
So...I have calmed down considerably since the last blog/rant. My schedule has finally been figured out! I am now taking Twi, Economic History of West Africa 1700-1860, The Black Diaspora, Colonial Rule and African Response, and Masterpieces of African Literature. Along with my independent research project (which has changed for the fourth time) examining the creation of women's NGOs in Ghana in the period of 1982-1992(ish...) when Ghana was under a pretty dictatorial government. Who was saying what women's roles were under this military regime? Etc.
In other good news, I gave in to temptation and paid to have 2 loads of laundry washed and dried in machines for me. I think that it was 6 cedis well spent. Especially considering that one of my purses has started to mold...Also, my towel is now both soft and clean, when, up until now it has either been soft and damp (and subsequently kind of smelly) or clean and sand-papery. I can tell you that after a 3.5 minute ice cold shower, neither of these options are that appealing. Oh well.
I have been in Ghana for 6 weeks! I am starting to realize how quickly the year will go by. Now that I have reading assignments, research to do, and football games to attend, I know that this first semester will be gone very quickly. Its both good and bad. In some ways I am so ready to go home. I want to dry my clothes, and take warm showers, and know that the toilets will flush, and not get stared at everywhere I go. But also, there are so many amazing things here. The break down of infrastructure makes everyone work so much harder. This is not a bad thing. People relate to one another in ways that would never happen in America. There is a level of comfortable that I can't describe other than say that people are so open here. About everything. The number of times I have had conversations about bowel movements is huge. Because you have to! Everyone is so willing to help out, and go further, and try harder, because that is just what you do. I hope I will remember those things when I leave.
I bought an orange yesterday using Twi! What an accomplishment! The woman just laughed at me the whole time, but she understood me, and it was amazing! (it was a very good orange too) Also, I watched the live broadcast of the U-17 world cup. The match between Ghana and Spain played on Wednesday morning, in Akuafo Hall, one of the dorms here. It was SO FUN! It was mainly Ghanaian men there, and then me and about 7 other white students, but everyone was screaming and singing and yelling at every call! Ghana lost 2 to 1 in the second overtime, which was heartbreaking but I am now VERY excited to attend some of the Africa Cup games, which will be held in January in Ghana. And, Ghana is the best football team in Africa, so its gonna be CRAZY! I can't wait.
Speaking of crazy. The weekend in Cape Coast was really fun. Elena's birthday was Friday, and so we all drank a lot (I held back as to take care of the birthday girl--who desperately needed it) and then went dancing on the beach. Because I am the best roommate ever, I shoved about a liter of water down Elena's throat, along with a loaf of bread, and she did not vomit and did not have a hangover the next morning. (Thank you, Andrea) The lack of hangover was a good thing because we ended up spending all day Saturday dancing in the streets of Cape Coast in the middle of this huge parade celebrating Cape Coast's New Year. It was wet and cold and so much fun. Other than the fact that some drunk Ghanaian teen poured Guinness in my hair...
On Sunday, we went to Kukum National Park to do the canopy walk. We walked through the top of a rain forest. I have some pretty incredible pictures. I will definitely show you. In 9 months when I come back. Wow...I love you.
So...I have calmed down considerably since the last blog/rant. My schedule has finally been figured out! I am now taking Twi, Economic History of West Africa 1700-1860, The Black Diaspora, Colonial Rule and African Response, and Masterpieces of African Literature. Along with my independent research project (which has changed for the fourth time) examining the creation of women's NGOs in Ghana in the period of 1982-1992(ish...) when Ghana was under a pretty dictatorial government. Who was saying what women's roles were under this military regime? Etc.
In other good news, I gave in to temptation and paid to have 2 loads of laundry washed and dried in machines for me. I think that it was 6 cedis well spent. Especially considering that one of my purses has started to mold...Also, my towel is now both soft and clean, when, up until now it has either been soft and damp (and subsequently kind of smelly) or clean and sand-papery. I can tell you that after a 3.5 minute ice cold shower, neither of these options are that appealing. Oh well.
I have been in Ghana for 6 weeks! I am starting to realize how quickly the year will go by. Now that I have reading assignments, research to do, and football games to attend, I know that this first semester will be gone very quickly. Its both good and bad. In some ways I am so ready to go home. I want to dry my clothes, and take warm showers, and know that the toilets will flush, and not get stared at everywhere I go. But also, there are so many amazing things here. The break down of infrastructure makes everyone work so much harder. This is not a bad thing. People relate to one another in ways that would never happen in America. There is a level of comfortable that I can't describe other than say that people are so open here. About everything. The number of times I have had conversations about bowel movements is huge. Because you have to! Everyone is so willing to help out, and go further, and try harder, because that is just what you do. I hope I will remember those things when I leave.
I bought an orange yesterday using Twi! What an accomplishment! The woman just laughed at me the whole time, but she understood me, and it was amazing! (it was a very good orange too) Also, I watched the live broadcast of the U-17 world cup. The match between Ghana and Spain played on Wednesday morning, in Akuafo Hall, one of the dorms here. It was SO FUN! It was mainly Ghanaian men there, and then me and about 7 other white students, but everyone was screaming and singing and yelling at every call! Ghana lost 2 to 1 in the second overtime, which was heartbreaking but I am now VERY excited to attend some of the Africa Cup games, which will be held in January in Ghana. And, Ghana is the best football team in Africa, so its gonna be CRAZY! I can't wait.
Speaking of crazy. The weekend in Cape Coast was really fun. Elena's birthday was Friday, and so we all drank a lot (I held back as to take care of the birthday girl--who desperately needed it) and then went dancing on the beach. Because I am the best roommate ever, I shoved about a liter of water down Elena's throat, along with a loaf of bread, and she did not vomit and did not have a hangover the next morning. (Thank you, Andrea) The lack of hangover was a good thing because we ended up spending all day Saturday dancing in the streets of Cape Coast in the middle of this huge parade celebrating Cape Coast's New Year. It was wet and cold and so much fun. Other than the fact that some drunk Ghanaian teen poured Guinness in my hair...
On Sunday, we went to Kukum National Park to do the canopy walk. We walked through the top of a rain forest. I have some pretty incredible pictures. I will definitely show you. In 9 months when I come back. Wow...I love you.
Thursday, August 30, 2007
Bureaucracy is a four letter word
Hello,
I must preface this rant disguised as a blog with the statement that I really am having an amazing time here. I am leaving for a weekend long festival in Cape Coast, and will then be on my way to Kukum National Park to do the canopy walk. I succeeded in buying wheat bread and oatmeal today, and I really enjoyed my first Twi class today. Not all is lost. However, despite the good, today was one of the longest days of my life. It is only 7pm.
Soooo, one of the reasons it happened to be ridiculously long is that I woke up at 4:20 (in the morning) today. By choice. In an effort to get fit, hang out with new friends, and make more, I have decided to join the Volta Hall (my all girl dorm) cross country team. This week is training for all the Volta ladies teams, including table tennis. The training involves a 20 minute run and then some crunches, sit ups, and stretching. AT FOUR IN THE MORNING. After the workout, I was sweaty and awake, so after my shower I decided to do my laundry. At 6am. Ridiculous? Maybe. Because we will be in Cape Coast all weekend, I will miss my usual Sunday morning ritual of washing all the weeks clothes under the thinly veiled judgement of all the girls going to church. (They all get up at around 5 on Saturday morning to do their washing. No thanks.) So, I washed all my clothes, and then me and Elena went to breakfast, where I only had to wait about 5 minutes (instead of the usual 20) to get my oatmeal and coffee. I have realized that oatmeal is my only chance for fiber here, and I am willing to wait for my colon's health.
Moving on. After breakfast I went to my first Twi lesson. The class is special for the people in my group, and is held in our own special study center located at the top of campus. Today my orientation journal and my ridiculously brown-nosing essay on "What I Learned from Orientation" were due. Our orientation, which really was immensely helpful, has also succeeded in reducing the 60 of us college age men and women into children, not to mention has continually saddled us with innumerable spur of the moment meetings with a million random people, not to mention tons of ridiculous (Orientation journal?) homework. So, I go to my Twi class. This class is scheduled to be in two groupings. The first is Monday and Wednesday mornings at 9:30 and the second is Tuesdays at 11:30 and Thursdays at 9:30. I have a class during Mondays lessons, so the second option works better because I have my African Literature class from 8:30 to 11:30 on Tuesdays (no kidding. 3 hour lit class at 8:30. Gross) and no classes on Thursdays. So, I get to class and find out that not only am I REQUIRED to turn in my class schedule TODAY, before leaving for Cape Coast, but Twi has been moved to 9:30 on Tuesdays.
This is frustrating for several reasons. First, and more obvious, I have another class during the Tuesday lesson. And since I also have a class (African History to 1500) on Mondays, it is now apparent that I will be unable to take Twi. The more complicated, is that some of my professors have yet to show up for class. I am serious. Not to mention, the add/drop date is not until Sept. 7th, AND the exam schedule is still not posted. Let me clarify. I am required to turn in a paper that says, in finality, what classes I will be taking, and with who, when I have not even had some of my classes yet, and I don't know when any of my final exams are, so I am unaware as to whether the classes I have signed up for yet will be feasible when it comes to exam time. And then, to make everything just a little more complicated, they have changed the time of the class that I was working my entire schedule around. I hated everyone.
This is where the bureaucracy really kills me. I am suffering under the demands of this goddamn study center, who changes its mind all the time, and doesn't bother to tell me until the day before I have to drop something, or change something, and it is all because the study center that I am being screwed over by here in Ghana is being screwed over my all the different schools in the States that are making it turn in copies of our registration BEFORE THE ADD/DROP DATE OF THE SCHOOL. Is this ridiculous to anyone else????!!!!??? God.
Moving on, again. To make my frustration even more dense, I was also informed that I would have to do a presentation, complete with literary review, of my independent study project, next week. You may be wondering: "what is this special study project?" I will tell you. I am required to write a 30 page paper about a topic that I will individually research and execute, under the supervision of a campus Professor, who I must find. This project does nothing for any requirement at my school. I repeat: this 30 page paper, that I am required to spend AT LEAST 10 hours a week researching, DOES NOT FULFILL ANY REQUIREMENT AT SAN FRANCISCO STATE UNIVERSITY. Ahhhhhhhhhh! To make matters worse (yes, it gets worse) I had a project set up, and had found an advisor all on my own, but my ridiculous (and terrifying) orientation advisor woman who is in charge of all of us, told me I could not do my project, and gave me an entirely new one. Granted, her project is better that mine was. Unfortunately, I have to do EXTENSIVE background research, not to mention, find a new professor to advise me in a week. Oh yeah. I will be gone all weekend.
And, to top everything off, it starting pouring (we are talking torrential downpour here) in the middle of me crashing a new African History class that I am forced to take instead of African History to 1500, (as I must take Twi. Schedule completely fucked? yes.) so all my laundry, that I needed for the weekend will never dry in time. How are you expected to hang dry clothes during the rainy season??? How??!
In good news, I can hear again, I am finally done with my antibiotics, so I can actually eat without wanting to kill myself, and tomorrow is Elena's birthday, so its gonna be a 3 day party in Cape Coast. After today I really need it. I love you.
I must preface this rant disguised as a blog with the statement that I really am having an amazing time here. I am leaving for a weekend long festival in Cape Coast, and will then be on my way to Kukum National Park to do the canopy walk. I succeeded in buying wheat bread and oatmeal today, and I really enjoyed my first Twi class today. Not all is lost. However, despite the good, today was one of the longest days of my life. It is only 7pm.
Soooo, one of the reasons it happened to be ridiculously long is that I woke up at 4:20 (in the morning) today. By choice. In an effort to get fit, hang out with new friends, and make more, I have decided to join the Volta Hall (my all girl dorm) cross country team. This week is training for all the Volta ladies teams, including table tennis. The training involves a 20 minute run and then some crunches, sit ups, and stretching. AT FOUR IN THE MORNING. After the workout, I was sweaty and awake, so after my shower I decided to do my laundry. At 6am. Ridiculous? Maybe. Because we will be in Cape Coast all weekend, I will miss my usual Sunday morning ritual of washing all the weeks clothes under the thinly veiled judgement of all the girls going to church. (They all get up at around 5 on Saturday morning to do their washing. No thanks.) So, I washed all my clothes, and then me and Elena went to breakfast, where I only had to wait about 5 minutes (instead of the usual 20) to get my oatmeal and coffee. I have realized that oatmeal is my only chance for fiber here, and I am willing to wait for my colon's health.
Moving on. After breakfast I went to my first Twi lesson. The class is special for the people in my group, and is held in our own special study center located at the top of campus. Today my orientation journal and my ridiculously brown-nosing essay on "What I Learned from Orientation" were due. Our orientation, which really was immensely helpful, has also succeeded in reducing the 60 of us college age men and women into children, not to mention has continually saddled us with innumerable spur of the moment meetings with a million random people, not to mention tons of ridiculous (Orientation journal?) homework. So, I go to my Twi class. This class is scheduled to be in two groupings. The first is Monday and Wednesday mornings at 9:30 and the second is Tuesdays at 11:30 and Thursdays at 9:30. I have a class during Mondays lessons, so the second option works better because I have my African Literature class from 8:30 to 11:30 on Tuesdays (no kidding. 3 hour lit class at 8:30. Gross) and no classes on Thursdays. So, I get to class and find out that not only am I REQUIRED to turn in my class schedule TODAY, before leaving for Cape Coast, but Twi has been moved to 9:30 on Tuesdays.
This is frustrating for several reasons. First, and more obvious, I have another class during the Tuesday lesson. And since I also have a class (African History to 1500) on Mondays, it is now apparent that I will be unable to take Twi. The more complicated, is that some of my professors have yet to show up for class. I am serious. Not to mention, the add/drop date is not until Sept. 7th, AND the exam schedule is still not posted. Let me clarify. I am required to turn in a paper that says, in finality, what classes I will be taking, and with who, when I have not even had some of my classes yet, and I don't know when any of my final exams are, so I am unaware as to whether the classes I have signed up for yet will be feasible when it comes to exam time. And then, to make everything just a little more complicated, they have changed the time of the class that I was working my entire schedule around. I hated everyone.
This is where the bureaucracy really kills me. I am suffering under the demands of this goddamn study center, who changes its mind all the time, and doesn't bother to tell me until the day before I have to drop something, or change something, and it is all because the study center that I am being screwed over by here in Ghana is being screwed over my all the different schools in the States that are making it turn in copies of our registration BEFORE THE ADD/DROP DATE OF THE SCHOOL. Is this ridiculous to anyone else????!!!!??? God.
Moving on, again. To make my frustration even more dense, I was also informed that I would have to do a presentation, complete with literary review, of my independent study project, next week. You may be wondering: "what is this special study project?" I will tell you. I am required to write a 30 page paper about a topic that I will individually research and execute, under the supervision of a campus Professor, who I must find. This project does nothing for any requirement at my school. I repeat: this 30 page paper, that I am required to spend AT LEAST 10 hours a week researching, DOES NOT FULFILL ANY REQUIREMENT AT SAN FRANCISCO STATE UNIVERSITY. Ahhhhhhhhhh! To make matters worse (yes, it gets worse) I had a project set up, and had found an advisor all on my own, but my ridiculous (and terrifying) orientation advisor woman who is in charge of all of us, told me I could not do my project, and gave me an entirely new one. Granted, her project is better that mine was. Unfortunately, I have to do EXTENSIVE background research, not to mention, find a new professor to advise me in a week. Oh yeah. I will be gone all weekend.
And, to top everything off, it starting pouring (we are talking torrential downpour here) in the middle of me crashing a new African History class that I am forced to take instead of African History to 1500, (as I must take Twi. Schedule completely fucked? yes.) so all my laundry, that I needed for the weekend will never dry in time. How are you expected to hang dry clothes during the rainy season??? How??!
In good news, I can hear again, I am finally done with my antibiotics, so I can actually eat without wanting to kill myself, and tomorrow is Elena's birthday, so its gonna be a 3 day party in Cape Coast. After today I really need it. I love you.
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