"And when it's over I want to say: all my life I was a bride married to
amazement. I was the bridegroom taking the world into my arms." Mary Oliver


Friday, August 10, 2007

Tough Day

This is a somewhat graphic blog retelling some of the horrors I learned of when visiting the preserved Slave Castles yesterday...if you are faint of heart don't read. <3

So today is Friday, the first of 3 free days we have been given from orientation ridiculousness. The original plan was for me, Elena, Megan and Becky to go to Kukum National Park, but we were informed that our whole group would be going there at the end of August and we have already paid for it...so we decided not to go.

Yesterday, was by far the toughest day we have faced in Ghana. The whole group of us (58!) went to Cape Coast to visit the Slave Castles there. It was one of the most emotionally draining experiences of my life. We first visited Cape Coast Castle. Our tour guide took us around, starting in what used to be the Male Slave Dungeons. It was so insane. Literally hundreds of men at a time were shoved into these small limestone rooms, only3 little openings to give any light at all. They were only allowed to leave and see sunlight for a few hours a day. Then we visited the female dungeons. This was terrible. These poor women were forced to stay in this underground hell where no wind or light reaches, unable to bathe, bleeding on themselves during their periods, no privacy whatsoever. The only opportunity they had to see the outside was when they were dragged out with only a loincloth around their waists, for the governor of the castle to decide which one he wanted to rape. That woman was allowed to bathe before she was violently assaulted.

The second castle was the Elmina Slave Castle. It is 525 years old and marks the first spot Europeans (Portugese) landed on African soil. Yeeesh. Anyway, the most gripping part of this tour was when we all crammed into the cell reserved for slaves who resisted capture, or rebelled against the Europeans in the dungeons. This cell was usually filled 30 at a time (it was big enough for 30 people with standing room only) the persons inside were not given any food or water, and there were no windows whatsoever to allow sun or air. These people were kept in there altogether until they all died. I almost vomited hearing this story.

After all of this we had a pretty somber bus ride home. I hate so much that these acts of hatred have created a world in which Africa is at the bottom of the world economically, many African Americans are living in poverty, and racism still exists in so many different forms. I hate that I am part of a system that guarantees I will benefit, because I am white, but guarantees that others who are not, won't. The stories about the women's exploitation were by far the worst. I don't understand that kind of greed and hate and violence. The whole time we were in both castles all I wanted to do was leave...but I knew that it was important that I stay and understand that this is a real part of the world's history, and a part of mine as well.

In some sort of bizarre coping method, I found myself missing stupid things that I won't get a chance to do for a long time. Like watching The Office. I miss burritos and pancakes and strawberries. I miss wearing jeans and feeling comfortable. I all of a sudden wanted to watch The American President so much. I haven't seen that movie in about 3 years. I think I miss things being easy...because things are pretty hard here sometimes. I know why I am here though. I want to be better than those who can hurt others the way African Slaves were. I want to educate people about ways they hurt each other without realizing. I am here to learn, and while it hurts a little I know I am getting stronger.

I hope this sad blog finds you well. I love you.

3 comments:

The Bear Family said...

This blog made my heart hurt. I saw the Constant Gardener for the first time yesterday and I couldn't even breath. I feel scared for Africa and I hope things start getting better NOW.

Reading your blog, I pictured the castle and I felt flooded with anxiety for some reason. I can't even imagine visiting that place myself, but I am glad you did and shared it. I think maybe we all need to start putting ourselves in uncomfortable situations if it means getting closer to the truth.

I miss you and love you and I hope you are getting this comments.

Al the Gal said...

I'm so proud of you kiddo. Me and dad were just talking yesterday about how easy it is to be white and how we feel that we(i.e. white America) are entitled because things have always been easy for us and we don't acknowledge that for others it isn't, in large part because of us and our history. It's really important the things you are learning cause you will never be able to think about the world the same way again and that knowledge will reach everyone you interact with for the rest of your life. It's so brave of you to do this and to be open to this. So many of us aren't.

I love you so much.

P.S. I'll make sure you get full accounts of Office episodes, including quotes. I already have a Harry Potter package for you once I get your address!

Ursula said...

God damn.

Just... fuck. Sorry, I shouldn't swear.

Reading your descriptions of the slave castles was incredible, but I still can't quite imagine what it must have been like for you to actually be there.

Can I just say that I am so proud of you for doing this? You amaze me. You really do. You are there because of a genuine desire to educate yourself and make the world a better place, and that is beautiful. With all that is wrong and unfair and corrupt in the world, you are trying to change it. Thank you.

I know this is of little consolation - but the things you love & miss - The Office, Can-Cun, 2am pizza runs to Mythic, breakfast at Kate's, jeans & hoodies - it will all still be here when you get back. I really would send you like a dozen veggie burritos but I can't figure out how without it being gross. I guess copies of The Office will have to suffice :)

xoxo

p.s. I got your phone call/message, but of course I was at work... grrr coffee bean orders grrr.